Huertas
Good for old bars, live jazz and cocktails in the Barrio de las Letras.
Huertas is the Barrio de las Letras after dark. La Venencia has wooden casks along the wall and no pretence, Viva Madrid is the old tiled bar, and Casa Alberto is the vermouth-and-tapas institution. Salmon Guru is the cocktail destination, and Café Central has live jazz. Cine Doré screens films with a terrace attached. Weekend nights are packed. Go early.
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