Brera

Good for the Pinacoteca, vintage shops and small restaurants on narrow streets.

Brera is Milan's old artists' quarter and still the best place to wander with no plan. The Pinacoteca di Brera holds the medieval and Renaissance paintings, Cavalli e Nastri and Vintage Delirium cover vintage, and Osteria Da Fortunata makes the pasta locals bring visitors for. Locanda alla Scala does candlelit Milanese cooking, Terrammare does Sicilian, and Spun Tiramisu sells one thing well. Come in the evening, when the lanes fill up.

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