Testaccio
Good for offal, cacio e pepe and a covered market.
Testaccio is where Rome eats the way Romans do. Checchino dal 1887 does nose-to-tail cooking, Felice a Testaccio is known for cacio e pepe, and Flavio al Velavevodetto and Perilli cover the rest of the classics. The Testaccio Market is the lunch stop, with a Trapizzino counter nearby for something quicker. It is a food district, not a sightseeing one. Book the trattorias, because the good ones fill up.
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