Kabukicho
Good for tiny bars in Golden Gai, a shrine behind the neon and karaoke at any hour.
Kabukicho is Shinjuku after dark, and it is less menacing than its reputation. Golden Gai packs tiny bars into narrow alleys, Torihana does yakitori in a room that feels like 1960s Tokyo, and Hanazono Shrine and Kabukichō Benzaiten are quiet corners a street from the noise. Champion Bar is a karaoke room with balloons to pop and grilled mushrooms. Come after dark, and ignore anyone on the pavement offering you a table.
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